Fix My Grill Parts finder · repair notes

fix

Grill clicks but no spark at the burner

Collector ticks while the ceramic is dead, cracked, or gapped wrong. Isolate module vs electrode before buying a whole kit.

easy PT40M Updated 2026-09-04

Igniter electrode gap at a burner port Ceramic insulator, metal tip aimed at a burner port. Spark gap about the thickness of a nickel. SIDE VIEW · ELECTRODE GAP burner tube ports ceramic lead tip spark gap ≈ nickel ~1.8–2.1 mm to a port Tip aims at a port, not the tube wall. Cracked ceramic = replace.
Fig. — Electrode: ceramic, tip, burner port, ~nickel gap.
Two AA cells in the side-table battery well Underside of the left side table. Two AA batteries, polarity stamped in the well. UNDERSIDE · LEFT SIDE TABLE side table (from below) BATTERY WELL AA − + + AA Two AA cells. Polarity is stamped in the plastic. Reverse = no click. Corroded springs: dry brush, not oil. Then new alkalines.
Fig. — Battery well under the side table. Two AAs. Match stamped polarity.

Hear the box click but see no blue snap at the tube? The module may be fine. Model examples: Spirit E-310 igniter, Nexgrill igniter, Rogue 425.

Procedure

  1. Lid open. Darken the area. Watch the electrode tip while a helper clicks.
  2. No tick at all → battery orientation / collector first.
  3. Tick in the box, no snap at tip → cracked ceramic, burned lead, or gap too wide.
  4. Snap at tip, no fire → gas path (regulator), not ignition.
  5. Replace only the dead electrode when the others spark.
  6. Gap to the factory tab — usually a thin coin width, not touching.
  7. Vacuum porcelain chips so the next spark does not short.
  8. Built-in 120V systems: transformer.

FAQ

Whole kit required?

Only if the module is silent with fresh batteries and good grounds.