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Weber Genesis II E-310 igniter

Genesis II E-310 Infinity / electronic ignition is not a Spirit 7642 AA box. Diagnose tick versus click, colored electrode leads, and sear as a separate ceramic.

moderate PT90M Genesis II E-310Genesis II E-335Genesis II E-315 Updated 2026-08-31

Igniter electrode gap at a burner port Ceramic insulator, metal tip aimed at a burner port. Spark gap about the thickness of a nickel. SIDE VIEW · ELECTRODE GAP burner tube ports ceramic lead tip spark gap ≈ nickel ~1.8–2.1 mm to a port Tip aims at a port, not the tube wall. Cracked ceramic = replace.
Fig. — Electrode: ceramic, tip, burner port, ~nickel gap.
Two AA cells in the side-table battery well Underside of the left side table. Two AA batteries, polarity stamped in the well. UNDERSIDE · LEFT SIDE TABLE side table (from below) BATTERY WELL AA − + + AA − Two AA cells. Polarity is stamped in the plastic. Reverse = no click. Corroded springs: dry brush, not oil. Then new alkalines.
Fig. — Battery well under the side table. Two AAs. Match stamped polarity.

Spirit 7642 kits do not live on a Genesis II E-310. Many II carts use electronic / Infinity-style ignition: hold the button, rapid tick, multiple ceramics with color-coded leads (yellow / black / green on several 66354-family years). We did not pin an ASIN for the full II kit — the OEM listing we checked was gone. Search BBQGuys and Amazon against the plate, then match wire length and tip color to the ceramic in your hand.

Older Genesis (no II) may still be a collector box. That is the Genesis igniter overview, not this page.

Diagnose

  1. Lid open, knobs off, shade so you can see the snap.
  2. Hold the button. Rapid tick = electronic II. Single click = you may not be on a II cart.
  3. Note which ceramics snap. Left snaps, right does not → local electrode or a lead off the module.
  4. Mains snap, side sear does not → sear electrode only on E-335. Do not replace the main module first.
  5. Every electrode snaps, nothing lights → gas. Regulator reset.

Replace one electrode

  1. Tank off. Grates and II flavorizer bars out.
  2. Photograph the bracket and the color of the lead.
  3. Pull the connector at the module, not mid-wire.
  4. Unclip the ceramic. Vacuum shards.
  5. New electrode: same bend, nickel gap, same color lead if the kit is color-coded.
  6. Test lid open before the bars go back.

When to stop

Not affiliated with Weber.

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